Finding Ionian magic on the island of Corfu
- Jordan Milano Hazrati
- Feb 9
- 10 min read
Updated: Feb 12
There’s just something about Corfu. It’s a feeling, rather indescribable that makes it hard to put pen to paper and attempt to recreate. From the moment that the plane flew the final approach to CFU (that’s Corfu to you and I) to stepping out into the warm, Summer air and smelling the unmistakable smell of Olive and Cypress trees, to hearing that first, very friendly ‘Kalimera’, I was in love and just knew I was going to love it here.
The flight to Corfu left London Gatwick at the ungodly hour of 5:05am, so yes, we had been at the airport since 3:05am. After sleeping for the entirety of the flight over Europe to Corfu, the view of olive groves, and rugged landscapes drew ever nearer, and before long, we had landed safely into a very warm, sunny, and hugely appealing Corfu.
After navigating passport control (which in all honesty was swift and pain free), we met our pre-booked driver in arrivals. I would recommend pre-booking your transfer from the airport if you’re hoping to travel by taxi as they’re very popular, and prices can vary massively if you book on the spot.
Our transfer took less than half an hour, as we had decided to stay on the East Coast of the island to really take advantage of the proximity to Corfu Town, and I had heard on the grapevine that the sunrises on the East Coast were something magical (spoiler alert: I was not disappointed). The hotel I found was called Anasa hotel, a small boutique hotel perched on the hillside and overlooking the Corfu coastline with the most hospitable of staff and fantastic facilities. We had arrived much earlier than our allocated check in time (about 8 hours early!) but we were told we could head to the pool bar and grab a coffee whilst we waited, and 40 minutes later our room was ready.
All rooms at the hotel had a balcony and a sea view, meaning you can’t miss out whichever one you book. However, we had a corner room which meant our balcony had wrap around views of the mountains behind the hotel as well as that ever-sought after sea view to the front. The rooms are stylish, spacious but with Corfu charm-a huge tick from me!
After prizing myself from my bed at 1:30am that morning, the rest of the day was earmarked for lazing around the beautiful pool (also overlooking the sea), ordering Greek salads, Aperol Spritz and Fanta Limon, and catching up on some reading that just doesn’t manage to get done in between the 9-5 and evenings teaching in the UK. The pool bar/restaurant (also handily where breakfast is served) provided excellent quality meals and drinks, at reasonable prices, meaning for those moments where you didn’t fancy walking into town, you always had exceptional options able to be enjoyed from your lounger (did I mention the sea view?)
I’d heard of a local taverna, less than 300m from the hotel called ‘Arokaria’ Taverna, family run and supposedly serving the finest authentic cuisine. This was to be our first stop of the holiday, and it was everything you’d want it to be (we actually came back for a second meal later in the trip it was so good). Serving all the Greek food you could ask for, Moussaka, Souvlaki, Stifado, Kleftiko, Tzatziki, Salads, and so much more, all homemade, all fresh, in beautiful gardens, ran by the most hospitable family that made me feel a part of them. Luck really was on our side that this was on the doorstep, and I couldn’t recommend more. Just go if you’re staying in or near Benitses.
I couldn’t wait much longer for the thought of that promised Corfu sunrise. Thankfully, I’m a natural early riser, and so the alarm I’d set to ensure I didn’t miss the beginning of the sunrise came as no surprise, and I left the cool of the room to the balmy early morning heat. At sunrise, Corfu feels quietly calm. The sky softens from indigo to blush, and the olive trees catch the first light. Down by the sea, the Ionian lies almost perfectly still, reflecting the pale gold of the morning. It’s at that point I realised that this island’s beauty really does lie in these hushed beginnings of the day.
Following a leisurely breakfast, a trip into Benitses was calling me. A short 20-minute walk from the hotel (although I’d warn any visitor that there isn’t a defined pavement along the main road into the town) and you are in the heart of this charming village. Once a small fishing village, it still carries unpolished charm, with colourful boats bobbing in the harbour and family-run tavernas lining the waterfront. The old village climbs the hillside behind the seafront, where narrow lanes, crumbling stone houses, and jasmine-scented courtyards feel a world away from the busier coast. We took some time to wander the winding streets, before stopping for a mid-morning coffee, and a dip in the calm Ionian waters. There are many coves to stop at on the way into town from South of Benitses, and I’d highly recommend taking advantage of them to find a peaceful spot to while away the hours.
Following an Aperol or two by the pool, it was soon time to get ready to head into Benitses to experience some of the hustle and bustle we’d been promised. I’d recommend becoming familiar with the bus network, as a simple 1.10EUR fare will take you from Anasa hotel to Benitses (and this same bus will take you into Corfu town too!) but at night it’s the safest, and cheapest way to get into town. Spoilt for choice, we chose a local taverna and settled in for a night of delicious Greek cuisine (and a glass of local wine).
Another day, another sunrise (I seemingly managed to get programmed into naturally waking up just in time to catch the sunrise), but I know that whilst it felt routine, there was nothing routine about these views. Once the sun had risen, and the hotel and local homes came to life, it was time to head into town for an early breakfast and an exciting day, visiting Paxos and Antipaxos.
I’d booked this boat trip prior to leaving for Corfu to make sure that we definitely could be accommodated. My first top tip is you must be prompt. Several passengers were late to the port, and in true hospitable Corfu style, we actually did go back to get them! But still, you do not want to be those people walking onto the boat last and doing the walk of shame.
We soon were speeding alongside the East coast of the island, singing along to ABBA songs blasting on the upper deck, Greek flag waving in the wind (is it giving Mamma Mia vibes to you?) The boat trip also included an incredible host, who passed the time with history and cultural awareness of the island and its people, which meant before we knew it, we docked into Paxos for our first 2.5 hour stop.
Paxos is small, understated, and effortlessly beautiful. Just south of Corfu, the island is wrapped in emerald water and edged with white limestone cliffs that drop dramatically into the Ionian Sea. Life here runs at a slow pace and you can see those lucky enough to live here appreciate that; mornings drift by in quiet harbours, afternoons are spent swimming in impossibly clear coves, and evenings unfold over simple, candlelit dinners by the water. We docked into Lakka, and I enjoyed swimming in the clearest water I ever did see, and popping into a local café for a sandwich and Aperol.
Back on the boat, we headed to the famous Blue Caves. The Blue Caves of Corfu feel almost unreal, where sunlight filters through the water and paints the rock in electric shades of turquoise and sapphire. Carved by the sea along the island’s rugged coastline, the caves are best explored by boat (although they are busy in the Summer months, so it’s best to head out with a pre-booked trip). We then headed to what was described to us as ‘the Maldives of Europe’, Antipaxos. I have never in my life, seen water so clear, so blue, and so bright that the sun sparkles over it. We had an hour and a half here to swim (following a jump off from the boat!) and bask in the sun on the shores of this little slice of heaven in the Mediterranean.
Every single person seemed to snooze their way back to Corfu. There’s something about being in the sun all day that does that to a person, but it was quite something to wake up and see a whole level of passengers asleep in the Golden Hour sunlight. Back on land, we grabbed a quick ice cream pick-me-up in Benitses and caught the bus back to the hotel. Dinner this evening was held in the hotel, where the staff told us about a particularly beautiful, expected moonrise. The perfect backdrop and setting to a relaxed evening.
It's like groundhog day now I’m sure for you as the reader, but my favourite moment of the day soon came around, and I sat on the balcony watching those famous shades of gold seep into the morning sky. I will never get over the feeling of luck that I had in these hours that I was here, alive, and experiencing this view at this moment in this specific spot on this beautiful planet. I guess that’s why sunrise features so heavily in this blog.
Soon enough, it was time to pack the backpack, and head to Corfu Town. We took the same bus that we’ve been using to travel into Benitses, but this time, stayed on a further 30 minutes until we pulled into Corfu Town.
Corfu Town is elegant and atmospheric, a place where Venetian grandeur meets laid-back island life. Pastel façades, shuttered windows, and arched arcades line the narrow streets of the old town, while laundry flutters overhead and cafés spill into hidden squares. Locals here linger over coffee, and the pace of life slows to match the heat, and let me tell you, it was blisteringly hot.
First stop, was the Old Fortress which rises dramatically above the town, a powerful reminder of Corfu’s strategic importance in the Ionian. Climbing its stone paths rewards you with sweeping views over red-tiled rooftops, the cricket pitch below, and the endless blue stretching toward Albania. Worth bearing in mind is the heat of the day, attempt to do this earlier rather than later if you’re visiting in the Summer months as we did! Tickets cost 10EUR but it’s well worth it for the few hours you can spend here learning more about the history of Corfu Town.
Next stop and almost missed unless you look hard among the neoclassical buildings nearby, the Catholic Cathedral of Saint Michael and Saint George brings a different layer of history to the town. Built during the British period, its pale stone columns and restrained interior feel calm and dignified, offering a quiet contrast to the Orthodox churches Corfu is better known for. Stepping inside, there’s a sense of how many cultures have passed through this island, and how gracefully Corfu has carried them all. I spent some time here admiring the beauty of the interior, and lit a candle for my late Nan, who as a well-travelled woman, I know would have loved it here.
I also know, she would have appreciated my next stop, which was for (you guessed it) an obligatory Aperol! A welcome break from the scorching heat of the day which was swiftly followed by some island shopping, and a trip to Solo Gelato. I cannot explain how divine this shop is and to top it off, I almost cried when the shop owner offered me melted chocolate in the cone of my hazelnut ice cream. This day was rounded off by a swim in the hotel pool to cool off from the day, and a trip to my favourite local taverna, and its feline habitants.
For my sunrise ritual on the penultimate day, we decided to head to a cove local to the hotel, to swim in the Ionian sea as the sun rose for another beautiful day. This is a must-do. It is the perfect way to wake your body for another day on this island, with nothing but the gentle pull of the tide, and the day slowly beginning around you to occupy your mind. We followed this with a lazy breakfast, and then a slow day hanging around the pool, finishing my reading for the week and enjoying the calm before the return to the UK storm.
Sundowners were on the cards for the last night in Benitses, and after sunset pictures on the seafront we headed to Éther bar. This place had all the vibes needed for a perfect sundowner spot. Good music, great cocktail menu, and a bar dog to cuddle… what more could you possibly want! Once night fell, we headed back to another one of the local tavernas for another evening of perfect Greek cuisine (to be honest your only difficult choice is going to be where to eat, as there is so much choice you’d need several weeks to make your way through the town) and some live entertainment. You couldn’t really get much better.
With one last chance to watch the sunrise I wasn’t going to miss it. It really was the perfect way to say goodbye (for now) to this beautiful island. It felt bittersweet, the familiar glow over the sea carrying both quiet gratitude for the days spent here, and the soft ache of knowing it’s time to leave.
After a final breakfast, we said goodbye to the team at Anasa who had really gone above and beyond to help make our stay special. I would hand on heart recommend if you want a chilled, boutique feel hotel for your stay in Corfu, checking out Anasa for your trip.
Corfu is the kind of place that lingers with you long after you leave. Whether it’s the scent of citrus drifting through Benitses village, the shimmer of the Ionian Sea at sunrise, or the easy rhythm of life shared over food and conversation, the island has a quiet way of stealing your heart. It’s a destination that offers beauty without hurry and history without heaviness, inviting you to slow down and simply be present. No matter how you choose to experience it, Corfu isn’t just a place you visit, it’s a place you feel, and one I inevitably find myself longing to return to.
My top 5 must do:
Visit Corfu Town: to understand the island, I truly believe you have to understand some of the history and spending time here is the best way to do that. Plus, Solo Gelato… you HAVE to go.
Take a boat trip to Paxos, Antipaxos and the Blue Caves: no words needed but if you want to live your best Mamma Mia Summer life then this is one sure way to do it.
Visit a local village and sample authentic cuisine: I think this also ties in to understanding the history of the island, and one sure way to do this is by understanding the food.
Make time to get up for sunrise: if I didn’t mention it enough, sunrise was without a doubt my favourite part of the day.
Check out the beaches of the island: pure relaxation and the clearest of waters await those that seek out the quietest coves.
Check out my gallery for more insight into our trip to Corfu here
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