From Málaga with love: 3 nights in the heart of Andalucía
- Jordan Milano Hazrati
- Jul 16
- 10 min read
Updated: Jul 17
There’s travelling, there’s holidays, and then there’s places you return to time and time again because it feels like an extension of home.
That’s Málaga for me. I’ve been coming to Málaga since I was a teenager with my family and have nothing but fond memories of this gorgeous city and the beautiful people who live and work here.
I won’t lie to you – it’s been a year (and it’s only July). In fact, it’s been five years to be truly honest, so when I knew that I had a little bit of leave from work, I longed for an escape from the rat-run of the UK. Unlike other occasions, I just wanted to return somewhere that I knew, that I didn’t have to think about where I would stay, or what I would do, or how to get there.
Cue Vueling flights from London Gatwick to Málaga were booked.
I managed to find incredibly civilised flights that landed into Málaga for around 17:00 landing back into London Gatwick for 19:00 (I told you, no 05:00 starts here!), for around EUR90 (bargain!), however I did refuse to book luggage (which would have been as expensive as the flight), so out came the trusty Dora the Explorer backpack. There’ll be people I know who read this and practically faint at only taking a backpack for a 3-night trip, but trust me, you actually do not need more than this as long as you pack smartly!
We took the train directly from Málaga Airport to the centre which cost a mere EUR 2.70 (top tip keep the RENFE card that you get and top it up on the way back for a cheaper fare) and it took around 14 minutes to get to the centre of Málaga. After a quick shop at the supermarket for some holiday essentials (Fanta Limon and crisps I’m looking at you), it was time to head out to one of my favourite bars and restaurants in the city.
El Pimpi is a legendary wine‑bar and tapas restaurant nestled in a converted 18th‑century mansion, right next to Málaga’s Alcazaba, Roman Theatre and Picasso Museum. Founded in 1971 by Paco Campos and Pepe Cobos, it has since become a living museum of local culture. Inside, you’ll find candlelit patios, exposed wooden beams, and walls adorned with bullfighting posters, celebrity photos and barrels signed by icons like Antonio Banderas, the Picasso family, Carmen Thyssen and more.
After ordering the usual (an Aperol Spritz) it was time to peruse the menu. Famous for the tapas it was only right to order a selection to sample. As well as bread and olives, we had prawns in chili and garlic, patatas bravas, a beautiful mediterranean salad, and a local speciality of shallow friend aubergines with a deep molasses honey. Paired with a Tinto de Verano (which soon became the drink of the trip simply for how refreshing it was… and cheap) this was the perfect reintroduction to Spanish cuisine.
One of my favourite thing about trips abroad is the early morning time. Call me crazy, but there is nothing more that I like doing than to wake up early, brew a coffee, pour a juice, and head out onto a terrace/balcony/courtyard area to start the day slowly in the fresh air. It’s something I really miss in the UK where the weather doesn’t allow for this too often and it’s how I chose to start the first morning of this trip (and the other mornings too for that matter!) It’s such a pleasant start to the day, checking content, catching up with family and friends, reading the Conde Nast Traveller and just waiting for the sleepy streets to start to come to life.
Eventually the rumblings of my stomach became too loud to ignore, and it was time to head out in search of breakfast. Most local restaurants and bars do a breakfast menu for great value (for example a pastry, juice and coffee for around EUR4.90) so we didn’t need to go too far to find something that we wanted. I enjoyed Pan con Tomate y Jamon, (that’s bread with tomato and ham to you) as well as a Zumo de Naranja y Café con Leche whilst watching the locals slowly start their day. I have to say, the pace of life here in Spain really does appeal to me after years of the British rat-race, corporate life, and working multiple jobs to stay afloat, and there’s something about spending time here that always grounds me in my priorities and reminds me of the true things that make life full and rich.
First stop of the day was the Alcazaba and the Roman Forum. Perched above the historic heart of Málaga, the Alcazaba is a stunning Moorish fortress-palace dating back to the 11th century, built by the Hammudid dynasty. Its well-preserved ramparts, lush gardens, and intricate arches offer sweeping views of the city and the port, echoing centuries of Islamic rule in Andalusia. Just below, the Roman Theatre (Teatro Romano) dates back to the 1st century BC, showcasing Málaga’s rich Roman heritage. Together, these landmarks form a powerful architectural dialogue between ancient Rome and medieval Al-Andalus, making this area one of the most evocative and historically layered sites in southern Spain. Tickets can be purchased on arrival, and if you’re like me and up for the hike, then it’s worth purchasing a dual ticket for the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro castle for EUR5.50.
After a lavish but lazy wander around the Alcazaba, it was time to move on to the second stop of the day. Rising high above Málaga on Mount Gibralfaro, Castillo de Gibralfaro is a 14th-century fortress built to protect the Alcazaba and the city below. Originally expanded by Yusuf I of Granada over Phoenician and Roman foundations, the castle offers some of the most breathtaking panoramic views of the coast, port, and surrounding mountains. With its imposing walls, military towers, and scenic walkways along the ramparts, Gibralfaro tells the story of Málaga’s strategic importance during the Nasrid period. Today, it stands as a proud symbol of the city’s layered past and a peaceful spot to reflect on centuries of Mediterranean history. Whilst it’s certainly not an easy walk uphill, there are plenty of places along the way to rest, listen to the musicians that seem to have been there for the past two decades (each time I’ve been at least), and there’s a bar at the top where you can enjoy well deserved refreshments (just mind the seagulls… they’re fairly cheeky!)
Back down in the city it was now time to take respite from the midday July sun which can be unrelenting. So naturally it’s the perfect time to pause for a Spritz and some lunch! One could say they’re spoilt for choice in Málaga for food but some of my favourite eateries are located in the historic centre (centro historico). Pepa Revuelo located on Calle Granada provided the perfect people watching spot, accompanied by the house spritz (non-alcoholic for a welcome change) and a fresh salad.
There’s not much more to do in the blistering heat, other than to head to the coast for some beach time and periodic dips into the sea, and Playa de la Malagueta is what makes Málaga the perfect city break, with a delicate balance of city life, and beach at the fingertips of visitors. Be warned, it gets super busy in the peak months of July and August, so you might have to dodge the umbrellas to find your spot, but at this later point of the day there were no problems finding a spot to lay my towel close to the water. Sundowners on the beach are a must and Málaga’s coast is dotted with cute chiringuitos just waiting to be frequented by locals and visitors for a Spritz or cocktail.
After freshening up, I’d seen a very boujee looking rooftop bar (no shame, I saw this on TikTok) that I really wanted to try, so we made our way to the port. Famous for the generous cocktails, wooden rattan vibe, and stunning sunset views over the port, Nusa bar was a new find for this trip that I can hand on heart recommend. Although the humidity was something else on this evening, Nusa was the perfect spot to enjoy an Aperol based cocktail whilst waiting for the heat to dissipate and cool down enough to find somewhere to eat. This didn’t happen on this evening until about 22:00 when it was finally cool enough to wander down to the restaurants that line the port. We found a lovely restaurant that specialised in local seafood but also had a special on that day for Paella for one (minimum orders in lots of places in Spain for Paellas are for two people), so I immediately jumped on the special as I cannot turn down the opportunity for Paella... ever.
Day two started much the same way as the previous day before again heading out for breakfast this time at a café closer to the centre. Although the setting was different, my breakfast was much the same (I’m definitely a creature of habit), but I did forgo the ham, for a side of croissant with my coffee.
First stop on this day was the Catedral. The Catedral de la Encarnación in Málaga is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Built between the 16th and 18th centuries on the site of a former mosque, the cathedral blends Renaissance, Baroque, and Gothic elements in a striking and unfinished masterpiece. Its nickname comes from the fact that one of its two planned towers was never completed, giving it a distinctive asymmetrical silhouette. Inside, the cathedral impresses with its soaring ceilings, intricate choir stalls carved by Pedro de Mena, and an atmosphere of grandeur and stillness. It stands as a testament to Málaga’s evolving religious and architectural history, right in the heart of the old town. Tickets for entry are EUR10 per person and come with a free audio guide if you want to listen to a bit more about the history as you progress your visit through the Cathedral.
After this, I wanted to check out one of my favourite spots for soaking up the local culture. The Mercado de Atarazanas lies at the vibrant heart of Málaga, housed in a stunning 19th-century neo-Moorish iron-and-glass building designed by Joaquín de Rucoba between 1876 and 1879. Inside, three lively sections, seafood, meats & cheeses, and fruits & vegetables, burst with local, seasonal goodness, whilst friendly vendors and tapas stalls serving ‘pescaíto’ and regional specialties turn it into a sensory feast. If you want to get to know the heart of Málaga then this should be a must for you.
A Tinto de Verano later and it was time to head to the beach again to cool off as the heat was hitting the usual blisteringly hot peak of the day. A bit more information for the newbie, Playa de la Malagueta is just a 10-minute walk from the historic centre, making it completely achievable to visit as if it were your own back garden. With the glittering Mediterranean on one side and the skyline of Gibralfaro and the cathedral behind you, La Malagueta captures Málaga’s easy-going, sun-soaked rhythm, where urban energy meets beachside bliss and the locals who frequent this gem of the Costa del Sol ooze that same energy and vibe as they spend the afternoon soaking up the sun.
For the final evening’s dinner venue, we visited a restaurant with maybe the best view in the city of the cathedral called Tatanegro. With a stunning setting providing high expectations, I was not disappointed with the chicken paella that was chosen. Packed full of flavour and with plenty to go round, I can recommend this restaurant for something a little more formal for a dinner setting.
A third and final morning admiring the courtyard and kicking back with my coffee (my goodness would I miss this), before heading out for breakfast. What was novel just two days ago, had suddenly become routine and I’d miss heading out for the usual pan con tomate. After this, we headed to Parque del Málaga, to find a shady spot, people watch and enjoy seeing the birds dip in and out of the various fountains. Amazingly, I also spotted a parrot (what I think was a Monk Parakeet), which I’d been hearing for days, but hadn’t managed to spot however once came really down really close … I’m taking it as a sign of sorts.
6 years ago, on a different trip, I ate at a restaurant called DBandera, and I was keen to revisit as I remember the tapas being absolutely divine. DBandera is a vibrant gastro‑taverna located in Plaza del Carbón, just steps from the cathedral, where traditional Mediterranean tapas, croquetas, Iberian ham, pintxos, and house‑made burgers, are served in a relaxed yet stylish atmosphere for very reasonable prices. I actually chose to have a meal (always wise before travelling) and chose the albondigas which were incredible, alongside a couple more Tinto de Verano (for the road… well it would be rude not to!)
Far too soon, it was time to leave the city and head to the airport. I can’t describe how it feels to be leaving Málaga. It leaves a huge hole in my heart every time, like I’m leaving a little piece of me there, but comfort is always taken that I know I’ll return given half the chance to. As the gateway to the Costa del Sol, Málaga offers far more than beaches, think Moorish fortresses like the Alcazaba, Roman ruins, buzzing tapas bars, world-class museums, and a thriving art scene anchored by Picasso’s legacy (which I haven’t even touched on this in this blog but is so worth digging into if you get the chance). The city’s palm-lined promenades, relaxed pace, and year-round sunshine make it a perfect base for both cultural exploration and coastal leisure. Whether you're wandering its cobbled old town, tasting tapas by the sea at Playa de la Malagueta, or watching the sunset from Gibralfaro Castle, Málaga wraps you in Andalusian warmth and charm. My advice to first timers; get out there. Lose yourself in the culture. Find the most crowded and noisy bar. Speak to the locals (even the odd word of Spanish will go a long way). Run into the warm sea. Order the Paella. And most importantly, let yourself fall in love with this stunner of a city.
To check more out from this trip to Málaga check out the gallery here!
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