Magic in Marrakech
- Jordan Milano Hazrati
- 4 days ago
- 12 min read
‘Hey Miley Cyrus, you lost?’ (note to the reader: I do not, nor have I ever looked like Miley Cyrus). But hey, if you want an ego boost for the day, take yourself for a walk through the souks of Marrakech!
Marrakech has been on my bucket list of destinations for some time, and no time felt better for me to go than for my 30th birthday. I can’t quite put my finger on why, but the blend in cultures between European, and Middle Eastern, with that extra special touch of North Africa, feels unique beyond what could be found anywhere else in the world. It probably feels a bit relatable too … with my mixed background, perhaps it feels like a place where the mix of cultures actually embraces me naturally.
I went on this trip with my mom, so it felt extra special. We flew with British Airways, from London Heathrow on the very civilised lunchtime flight, meaning that we landed into Marrakech around 4pm local time.
Changing our currency straight away at the airport, we then headed out to meet our driver that I’d booked in advance to take us to our Riad. I knew when booking this trip that I wanted to stay in the Medina, to really experience the local culture, and I’d done a fair bit of research to help me decide which Riad was going to be the right one (there are tonnes of stunning Riads in the Medina and I’m sure wherever you go you won’t be disappointed), but I was overwhelmed with how great our stay was.
We headed through the rush hour traffic of Marrakech, wincing every time our driver managed to squeeze through a gap that quite frankly didn’t look like it would fit a bike through never mind a sizeable car, and eventually pulled up on the outskirts of the Medina. Stepping out of the car for the first time, I was immediately thankful that we were going to be escorted to our Riad, as it was definitely going to take some getting used to navigating the winding maze that lay before us.
Riad XO lies in the Northwest area of the Medina, right around the corner from the Ben Youssef Madrasa, and a five-minute leisurely stroll to the entrance of the souks. It is the perfect location for not only exploring the souks but for any excursions you might want to plan out of the city. I’d seen this Riad on TikTok (shameless I know) and knew instantly that I wanted to book to stay here and when I say it was divine. Guys – IT WAS DIVINE! The staff were phenomenal, the setting is beautiful and honestly, I thought it was as close to perfect as it could be. On arrival we were greeted with traditional Moroccan tea, and sweets, and the staff downloaded apps to our phones that would help us navigate the city as well as gave us an introduction to the main sights. This was all above and beyond what I expected and really helped us to settle into the city.
After we checked in, we got quickly changed and freshened up and headed out for the evening. This was our first experience of the souks, and coincidentally our first experience of also being nearly knocked out by a moped. The souks are full of every single colour you could possibly imagine, and everywhere you look there is something else to see - spices, clothing, oils, cafes, leather, you name it you can probably find it in the souks. Whilst you’re taking this in and simultaneously not being lured into every shop, you’re also trying to navigate, not be knocked out by said moped, but still take in the sights because it’s so incredible and a real experience for the senses.
We were headed to El Fenn, a rooftop bar on the Western side of the Medina. You can’t make bookings here, but I was assured that a space would be able to be found for us and it wasn’t a problem at all. We were seated quickly and given somewhere with a beautiful view of the city. They had a good cocktail menu and the atmosphere was relaxed, laid back and vibrant – perfect for the first night in the city. After a few hours here, we went to El Jardin which was closer to the centre of the Medina. We’d booked in advance to guarantee a space on the rooftop (there’s a theme here I know), and it’s worth knowing that it’s a dry restaurant (as are many places obviously in Marrakech!). We had hummus and breads to share for starters, and then chicken tagine for our main which was beautiful – so fragrant and packed full of flavour. After paying up, we were both ready for a good night sleep so headed back to the Riad, for a last pot of traditional tea on the rooftop before turning in for the night.
Breakfast at Riad XO is complimentary and plentiful so after a good night sleep, we headed up to the rooftop to check it out! It’s brought directly to your table and consists of fruit, yoghurt, juice, coffee, breads and cakes, and then eggs of your choice! Perfect to set you up for the day in the city. We then headed out into the Medina, and only a short five-minute walk later were at our first stop, the Ben Youssef Madrasa. Tucked away in the heart of Marrakech’s old Medina, the Madrasa is a stunning window into Morocco’s rich Islamic and architectural heritage. Once one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa, it now welcomes visitors from across the world to explore its intricate décor, with the highlight being the central courtyard. Wandering through the quiet dormitory rooms and taking in the ornate inscriptions, it’s easy to imagine the generations of students who once studied here.
After this we made our way through the souks once more to head to Bahia Palace. On the way we experienced the most incredible road traffic jam. I know the M25 sometimes feels like a car park (don’t we know it) but this was something else. Complete standstills, pedestrians flattening against the walls trying to give room for cars to squeeze through, and the horns… so many horns! It really did reinforce after the calm of the Madrasa, that we were in this incredibly diverse, dynamic and exciting country.
Bahia palace entry cost 100 MAD (around £8) to enter and is a stunning example of 19th-century Moroccan architecture and design. Built to be the grandest palace of its time, its intricate tilework, carved cedar ceilings, and peaceful courtyards offer a glimpse into the opulence of royal life. As you wander through the cool, shaded rooms and fragrant gardens, it’s easy to imagine the grandeur and intrigue that once filled its walls. A visit here is a must for anyone wanting to experience the elegance and artistry of historic Morocco. There was some construction ongoing when we visited, but this didn’t distract us at all from the beautiful colours and history of the palace.
Whilst this side of the city, we decided to visit neighbouring Badi Palace. Some say it’s not as splendid as Bahia palace, but for me, I think this was my favourite of the two. Entry price was exactly the same – 100 MAD for adults (there are different prices at both palaces for children, and for local guests), and you begin your tour through the basement before emerging into the absolutely huge central square. Each corner seemed to have another pool reflecting the midday light, and storks nest on the ramparts, watching visitors explore the terraces for sweeping views of the city.
After this, it was time for a well-deserved sit down, and some food, and I’d heard nothing but amazing things about Café Des Epices – just around the corner from Jemaa El Fnaa. Jemaa El Fnaa is a world in itself, but I was most nervous about encountering the snakes that are charmed at the edges of the square. This wasn’t helped whilst I was desperately trying to ignore the ones I could hear, by my mum remarking ‘oh god there’s loads of them!’ Cue a very nervous Jord all of a sudden. At Café Des Epices we were really lucky to get another rooftop terrace table, so took the hour to soak in the views and watch people shop in the square below. We shared a couple of salads, hummus, and breads which was just enough in the midday heat.
We then decided to head back to the hotel for a spot of reading and sunbathing on the gorgeous rooftop terrace (as well as a cheeky gin and tonic), before getting ready for dinner that evening. As it was my 30th birthday trip, I’d booked somewhere quite special in the form of La Trattoria, which again I’d seen on social media. The setting is phenomenal, all centred around a pool in the open courtyard, and I’d booked in advance requesting to sit by the pool weeks in advance (a must do for the best seats).
We got a taxi as the restaurant was out of the Medina, which cost less than £10 and before we knew it, we were welcomed into La Trattoria. As promised our table was right by the pool and absolutely beautiful. We started the night with my signature drink, (cut me open I probably bleed this colour), an Aperol Spritz. For dinner I ordered a seafood pasta (one of my favourites) and then the lovely staff treated me to my favourite dessert, Tiramisu, and sang to me for my birthday. I have to say I felt thoroughly spoilt and treated which was exactly what I wanted to mark the new decade.
It was an early night then for us, as we had a very exciting, early morning activity booked. As someone who likes to spend a lot of time in the air, I’ve been desperate to do a hot air balloon ride for as long as I can remember, and the Marrakech sunrise desert balloon rise is one of the ones on my bucket list. Our pickup was arranged for around 4:45am and after about 40 minutes driving through the darkness, we arrived at the Berber tents that were prepped and ready for our arrival. Over the next hour, more guests arrived whilst we sipped on coffee and juice, ate pastries and fires were lit around us to keep us warm. One of the best things about travelling is the conversations you have with people you meet along the way, and we met some lovely people whilst just standing around and waiting for it to be time to go to our balloon.
Just as it started to get light, the balloons and baskets were brought out and prepared for flight, and we then followed our leaders to our designated baskets. We were helped in, and mum and I had spots right in the middle of the balloon, the perfect spot for sightseeing over the desert. Before long, we were up in the air, looking out over the desert and watching the sunrise. I can’t quite explain the peace that is felt once up in the air, but it’s a tranquillity like I’ve never felt before. What’s also pretty magical is that you look out and see probably 16-20 other balloons floating into the sky. Stunning. It also helped that our captain thought he was up for the comedian of the year award and made several jokes, ending after our landing with ‘not bad for my first time’ (slightly terrifying the more nervous members of the group).
We were then greeted with a traditional Berber breakfast which had plenty of ‘Moroccan Whiskey’ (tea), and freshly fried doughnuts, as well as breads, eggs, hummus, jams and fruits. The hospitality could not be faulted, and once we’d got our certificates with our names printed in Arabic, it was sadly time to go. I’d 100% recommend this experience and I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
Back at the hotel, we had a quick freshen up and then decided to walk all the way to the Jardin Majorelle, which involved a 30-minute walk through the Medina, and out of the city walls. We’d booked tickets in advance which is a must do and they cost around 170 MAD. Jardin Majorelle is a vibrant oasis in the heart of Marrakech, offering a peaceful escape from the city's buzz. Designed by French artist Jacques Majorelle and later restored by Yves Saint Laurent, the garden is a striking blend of exotic plants, bright blue architecture, and tranquil water features. As you stroll through bamboo groves, cactus gardens, and lily-covered pools, the bold cobalt blue, known as ‘Majorelle blue’, creates a dreamlike atmosphere. They were also filming for something in the gardens on this day, who knows what, but it was cool to think that somewhere around the world we might be in the background of some feature travel series! We followed this up with an iced mint lemonade and salad at Le Majorelle Rooftop (a 2-minute stroll from the gardens) before battling the traffic back to the hotel.
You might think that I’d had enough of rooftops by now, but we had still got a few to hit! This evening’s was absolutely one of my favourites and was situated in the heart of the Medina. Dar-Dar Rooftop is a stylish, laid-back spot in the heart of Marrakech, perfect for unwinding after a day exploring the Medina. With its chic boho decor, panoramic views of the city, and a relaxed vibe, it’s a great place to enjoy a sunset cocktail or a casual Moroccan-fusion meal. The rooftop terrace offers a mix of sun and shade, cosy seating, and a soundtrack of mellow tunes, making it ideal for both daytime lounging and evening drinks. It’s a go-to for great food, good vibes, and a stunning city backdrop. I’d booked in advance again to guarantee a rooftop table during the sunset and that really is recommended. We had Aperol Spritzes to start and then ordered based on recommendations from the staff! This involved what they called ‘Moroccan spring rolls’ and prawns for starters, and then tagines and vegetable cous-cous for main courses. The food was as I’d come to expect in Marrakech – absolutely delicious and I’d certainly say to anyone this is a stop you have to make. We then made our way back to the hotel for what had become our new nightly routine, sitting on the rooftop, drinking our Moroccan tea, and tonight they even let me have a go at pouring it! I don’t think I did too bad of a job.
Our final full day started with breakfast in the hotel, before heading out to get a bit more local currency to pay for a booked Hammam in the hotel! Note to anyone – if you’re worried about getting local currency whilst you’re here, then please don’t because there’s plenty of places to get currency and you won’t be stranded, just ask your local hotel staff for the best places to go to. We then returned to the hotel for our Hammam Spa experience. The staff who did this were absolutely brilliant, and left no dead skin on me, although they were a bit shocked that I asked to keep my bikini on rather than strip down to my birthday suit! Feeling fresh, massaged, moisturised and sufficiently calm, we headed back out into the souks for one final outing of culture.
Le Jardin Secret is a hidden gem in the winding alleys of Marrakech’s Medina, offering a peaceful escape steeped in history and beauty. Once a private palace, the restored gardens combine Islamic and exotic landscaping, with elegant fountains, lush greenery, and striking traditional architecture. The calm atmosphere is a refreshing contrast to the bustle outside, and the towers offer panoramic views over the rooftops of the city. It’s a serene and inspiring space that blends nature, history, and Moroccan design in perfect harmony. I can also highly recommend the café in the centre of the courtyard, which serves cooling iced mint tea – a new favourite of mine from this trip.
For our final evening, I’d booked Nobu Rooftop Garden (told you that we weren’t done with the rooftops) which gave an entirely new perspective on the vastness of the city. Perched atop the chic Nobu Hotel Marrakech in the Hivernage district, the Nobu Rooftop Garden is a breathtaking urban oasis where panoramic views of the Red City and the Atlas Mountains meet laid‑back luxury. Centred around a circular, all‑season pool and surrounded by cabanas and a lush garden‑style terrace, it’s the perfect spot for anything from a sun‑lit lunch to an elegant evening with signature cocktails in hand. We only had cocktails here, as I didn’t quite fancy the sushi menu, but a few more Aperol Spritzes were drank to celebrate what had been a beautiful trip.
Our final dinner was at Nomad, located opposite Café Des Epices where we ate on the first day. Albeit a bit cold and chilly (it was Winter after all!) this was offset by staff handing out fleeced cloaks to wear with dinner! All a bit bizarre, but the Moroccan style curry that I ate topped off what had been consistently amazing food on this trip. Before long it was time for one last tea on the rooftop and to say goodbye to the evening staff, whom I'd grown fairly fond of on this visit.
Our final morning consisted of one last breakfast, before heading back to the airport to leave Morocco. Making sure to exchange local currency at the airport before leaving for the UK, our airport experience was entirely seamless from start to finish, with even a few staff at the airport wishing me a Happy Birthday when checking my passport (my birthday was the next day!)
Marrakech is a city that completely awakens the senses and lived up to every expectation that I had and more. From the vibrant colours and scents of the souks to the peaceful beauty hidden behind ornate doors. Highlights and long-lasting memories that really stood out to me were the incredible contrast between the chaos of the Medina and the calm of its gardens and palaces, the richness of Moroccan design in places like Bahia Palace and Jardin Majorelle, and above all else, the warm hospitality of the locals, who always made time for a smile or story. It’s a place where every corner holds a surprise, and yes, I’d absolutely go back in a heartbeat. In fact, I already can’t wait to return.
Click the button to check out more pictures from our Marrakesh adventure!
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