La Vita è Bella in Sicily: Finding Sicilian Soul in Palermo and Cefalù
- Jordan Milano Hazrati
- 3 days ago
- 12 min read
Sicily was an obvious choice for an April-time holiday. If not for the sun and the warmer weather in one of Europe’s most Southern islands marking the start of EuroSummer, but also because this trip was for my sister’s 30th birthday. Fun fact, both my sister and I have Italian middle names (mine is Milano), and hers, is Palermo. Which made Palermo the perfect starting point (and slightly iconic).
We flew from London Heathrow to Palermo direct, with a flight time of around 2 hours and 20 minutes, with some of the most beautiful views, a couple of glasses of bubbles and chocolates to celebrate the start of the 30th birthday celebrations. We soon arrived into a sunny Palermo and caught the train from the airport into the city centre; this was about 50 minutes in duration, and cost EUR5 each. Super easy!
Nothing screams EuroSummer city break than the sound of dragging a cabin-sized suitcase across cobbled streets, and I’m afraid to say that we were absolutely those girls. However, immediately you got the sense of this city: cosmopolitan, chaotic, full of grit and grandeur, and utterly mesmerising. I knew straight away that I was going to like it here. It felt real. Which was exactly what I was looking for.
I’d booked a small aparthotel in the city centre in the area of La Kalsa, which is perhaps best known for the market that sets up camp here on a Sunday. One of my priorities whenever I book something is for it to have an area of outside space (if possible and particularly in the summer months). Hotel Petrosino had a beautiful balcony off our room, with a small bistro table and chairs overlooking the square that would house the famous market. Perfect for an afternoon Aperitivo and watching the world go by!
No time to waste chilling in a hotel though! City breaks are go go go and with a packed itinerary, it was time to head out (plus, I was in need of some food, and ready for an Aperol Spritz!) First stop of the day was Quattro Canti.
Quattro Canti, also known as four corners to you and I, is the symbolic heart of Palermo, where the city's two main streets, Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, intersect. Built in the early 17th century, this elegant Baroque square is famous for its’ four curved façades, each decorated with fountains, statues of the seasons, Spanish kings, and Palermo's patron saints. Uniquely, at least one side of the square is always illuminated by sunlight throughout the day. As we found, there are often many a street performer gracing one of the corners, providing the locals and tourists alike with beautiful opera, and art.
Just around the corner, we visited Piazza Pretoria. Piazza Pretoria is one of Palermo's most beautiful squares, best known for the magnificent Fontana Pretoria. Created in the 16th century by sculptor Francesco Camilliani, the fountain features an impressive collection of marble statues. Surrounded by historic buildings, including the City Hall and the Church of Santa Caterina (which we would be coming back to for other reasons on day 3) Piazza Pretoria is a highlight of Palermo.
Back to the main event. Food. I love food. There is also little I enjoy more in this life than authentic Italian cuisine, accompanied by a crisp, cool Aperol Spritz. With a desire to also search for the hustle and bustle of Palermo, we headed across to Ballarò market. A short 5-minute walk from Quattro Canti.
A visit to Ballarò Market is a feast for the senses, with colourful fruit and vegetable stalls, fresh seafood, local street food, and the lively calls of vendors filling the air. Wandering through its bustling streets offers a true taste of everyday life in Palermo and was the perfect place to try authentic Sicilian flavours. We actually struggled to choose where to sit and eat as everything looked so inviting but eventually, we settled on a vendor that seemed to have the widest fresh fish selection. In true style, we ordered Aperol, aubergine in a tomato sauce with parmesan, fresh grilled squid and (when in Sicily) the local speciality of Arancini (you HAVE to try these).
Suitably refreshed it was time to head on to the next stop of our planned afternoon in Palermo. The Cathedral. Entry to the cathedral is free, but we purchased additional tickets (head just around the corner from the main entrance to a small shop) for the rooftop, which I think was EUR7 each. Palermo Cathedral is a stunning blend of architectural styles, reflecting the city's rich and diverse history. Climbing to the cathedral's rooftops was well worth the effort (allow a good hour to really enjoy this experience) rewarding us with breathtaking panoramic views over Palermo, the surrounding mountains, and the sparkling Sicilian coastline. We actually arrived just in time for golden hour, which made for the perfect pictures.
We thought we could squeeze one more stop in before a pick me up in the form of Gelato, so we headed to Chiesa Del Gesù, one of the most ornate churches I’ve ever stepped foot in and (I promise as an avid Euro-explorer) I’ve been in my fair share of cathedrals and churches across the continent. The Chiesa del Gesù is one of Palermo's most spectacular Baroque churches, with every surface covered in intricate marble inlays, frescoes, and ornate decorations. Stepping inside felt like entering a masterpiece, where every detail reflected the incredible craftsmanship and artistic richness of Sicily. We also were lucky enough here to witness some kind of ceremony (I’d guess a baptism, but my Italian is just about good enough to order food, ask for a table, directions, and go shopping), which felt rather special. I couldn’t help but think ‘Imagine getting baptised/married/ blessed (delete as appropriate) here!’
It was now time for a Gelato stop, so we head to Belli Freschi, recommended to us by the beautiful world of TikTok, and helpfully a 2-minute stroll from our previous stop. The gelato here was absolutely divine, so if you’re visiting, make this a priority in amongst your travels (plus you’ll be surrounded by some cute cats, always a win!)
After freshening up for dinner, we went for a stroll around Giardino Garibaldi, accompanied by a light spot of window shopping (or stall shopping?) as they have artsy stalls throughout the gardens to browse! We then headed for dinner at Caterina Pizza e More, rounding off the day with the most stunning Pizzas, dips and Spritzes.
Day 2 began with a coffee on our lovely balcony watching the market be set up and the sleepy Sunday vibes of Palermo, be replaced slowly with the buzz of locals looking for a great deal. We got ready, and headed for a stroll around the market, soaking up the local atmosphere, and hunting for the must–visit stands.
Both my sister and I enjoy our food, and we were both in desperate need of breakfast at this point, so we headed to Pasticceria Costa near Quattro Canti for coffees and brioche con gelato. A decadent breakfast for sure, but the sugar rush was exactly what we needed to fuel us for the day ahead.
Next on the agenda was to visit the Palatine Chapel. Top tip, you can buy tickets there, but the queue was remarkably long, so to save time, check out the online booking portal and purchase your tickets there! The Palatine Chapel is one of Palermo's greatest treasures, famous for its dazzling golden mosaics and remarkable blend of Norman, Byzantine, and Islamic artistic influences. Visiting this extraordinary chapel was a highlight of the trip, offering a glimpse into the city's unique cultural heritage and centuries of history. My sister particularly loved this spot, as she’s an artist and designer, so found tonnes of inspiration everywhere she looked (so for all those budding artists out there, this has to be at the top of your list!)
We then headed to Teatro Massimo. Teatro Massimo is Italy's largest opera house and one of the biggest in Europe, renowned for its grand architecture and outstanding acoustics. A fun fact is that the theatre featured in the final scene of The Godfather Part III, making it a must-visit for both music lovers and film fans. Whether admired from the outside or explored on a guided tour, it is one of Palermo's most iconic landmarks. We took the guided tour which runs every hour and cost us EUR12 each. The tour is conducted in multiple languages so there really will be something for everyone to listen to (our tour was dual English and Italian!)
We stopped for lunch in Via Maqueda, where we had one of my favourite street food discoveries in Palermo. This was a simple sandwich filled with crispy fried chickpea called Panelle. The golden slices were perfectly crunchy on the outside, soft in the middle, and packed with flavour, proof that sometimes the simplest ingredients make the most memorable meal. We followed this up with a stroll around the marina before heading back to the hotel for an hour or two to relax and get ready.
I’d booked a table at Seven rooftop bar for drinks to kickstart the evening which had amazing views and a fabulous atmosphere, however due to the wind we all got moved inside! This was probably a good call to be fair as glasses and chairs were being blown over (I certainly didn’t want to lose my spritz!) Be prepared to spend a bit more money here for your cocktail than down on the streets of Palermo, but the views are worth it and particularly if there’s an occasion to be celebrated! We then walked back towards La Kalsa and found a gorgeous restaurant called La Loggia, where we enjoyed a bowl of pasta and glass of wine before turning in for the night.
I mentioned we’d be heading back towards the Church of Santa Caterina, and that’s how we began our final morning in Palermo. I Segreti del Chiostro was high on my hit list of places to visit and things to try, so at 9:45 we joined the queue, for what are rumoured to be Palermo’s best cannoli. 10:00 sharp the doors opened and we headed up the stairs to see if this really was the case. I Segreti del Chiostro is a charming café famous for its traditional Sicilian cakes and pastries. Enjoying homemade desserts in the tranquil cloister provided a relaxing break from the busy streets of Palermo and offered a delicious taste of the city's rich culinary heritage.
We bought two cannoli with ‘everything’ for toppings (chocolate, nuts, and candied fruit) and headed into the beautiful courtyard to sample them. Oh, my goodness, when I tell you they lived up to the hype, I can’t even begin to explain. Just go. They’re the most luscious, rich, light, fluffy, flavoursome dessert you could ever ask for (or breakfast in our case!) Whilst here, we also met the beautiful Irini Tzortzoglou (you may know her from Masterchef in the UK!) and had the nicest conversation over our cannoli. Proof that once again, travel really does have the capability to connect us all.
We then hurried to Palermo Centrale to catch the train to Cefalù. A mere 50 minutes around the coast of Sicily, but in terms of feel, a whole world away from the busy vibes of Palermo. Cefalù is one of Sicily's most picturesque coastal towns. With charming medieval streets, golden sandy beaches, and relaxed atmosphere, it was the perfect place to slow down, soak up the scenery, and enjoy the beauty of Sicilian life.
We were staying in B&B Le Suites di Costanza, which was roughly a 10-minute walk from the station, and 5 minutes into the centre of the old town … handily also right on the beach front! Our room had a beautiful balcony overlooking La Rocca (which will feature in more depth later in this blog) and also included breakfast which was handy for the early morning starts we had in Cefalù. We headed out straight away and stumbled (almost by accident) on our first stop in the old town at Lavatoio Medievale.
The Lavatoio Medievale in Cefalù is a fascinating historic washhouse built into the rock, where water from a natural spring once flowed through stone basins. Walking through the arched passageways and worn steps offered a glimpse into everyday life in medieval times, when locals gathered here to wash clothes and share stories. It’s free to visit, will only take you 15 minutes and well worth it to soak up some Sicilian history.
We stopped for lunch, sharing a salad and a pizza over a Spritz (with the most flavoursome artichokes), before heading off to the Cathedral (I did say I’d been to and will continue to go to a lot of Cathedrals… perhaps the Catholic in me really has rubbed off).
The Cefalù Cathedral is a striking Norman landmark, known for its twin towers and impressive Byzantine mosaics inside, especially the image of Christ Pantocrator. Climbing up to the rooftops was a real highlight, offering sweeping views over the terracotta rooftops of Cefalù, the winding old town, and the shimmering Mediterranean Sea beyond. Tickets for the rooftops form a part of the various route tickets you can buy (red, blue or green), dependent on how much time you have and how cultural you want to be! We purchased the blue route which covers the towers, rooftop and the mosaics for EUR10 each and we spent probably about 45 mins to an hour completing this route. For the red route or green route, you’ll want to allow much more time as they include additional extras such as the museums.
After changing for dinner at the hotel and strolling through the old town to take some pictures (got to be done) we headed towards the lighthouse for our dinner, where I’d read you could find some of the best food at Al Faro. At first glance, you might think this would be quite an expensive meal, but I was so pleasantly surprised by the reasonable pricing, gorgeous sundowner themed setting, and delightful cuisine (you can also book ahead online which we did). We shared local Italian grilled cheese for starters, and then I had Bucatini Con Sarde (a local speciality) for my main, which was absolutely perfect.
We were up fairly early on day 4, as we had big plans to hike La Rocca, before the storm came in later that day. The hike up La Rocca in Cefalù is a rewarding climb that winds through ancient ruins and rugged terrain as it rises above the town. At the summit, the panoramic views over Cefalù, its cathedral, and the deep blue Tyrrhenian Sea make every step worthwhile, especially in the warm Sicilian light. Allow at least 2 hours to complete the hike, and 3 if you want to linger at the top to admire the views. We were pleasantly surprised on this hike to make some friends. They later saw us standing on the peak of the hill and shouted up to us (from quite some distance) that they would take our picture! After shouting down my Instagram handle details, I thought nothing more of it, until about a month later they arrived into my DMs and they’re some of my favourite pictures of this trip.
We then treated ourselves to beachside sandwiches and takeaway Aperol (hit up Castel Bonta for your sandwiches in Cefalù – we made a brief cameo on their Instagram story prior to leaving which just highlighted to me how much social media really has become a firm fixture in advertising around the globe) before the promised storm really did hit and my goodness was it dramatic. We braved a short gap to run to a restaurant our hotel had links with (and subsequently a 10% discount) where we sought solace over another spritz (shock horror) and for me a beautiful seafood risotto.
The following morning, we had a really quick breakfast before saying goodbye to our beloved Cefalù and heading back to Palermo airport. We caught the train, and whilst there was a small bit of panic over some delays (running on Italian time this day for sure), the journey only took about 1 hour 45 minutes, and we arrived with plenty of time to catch our flight back to London Heathrow.
I’ve been to Sicily before but stayed on the East Coast gracing the beautiful towns of Taormina, Marzamemi, Ortigia, Noto and Catania, but adding Palermo and Cefalù to the list of visited destinations really confirms my belief that Sicily is not only beautiful, but steeped in rich, deep history well worth exploring in some depth. Palermo felt vibrant and full of life, with its bustling markets and stunning architecture, while Cefalù was more relaxed and scenic, with its beautiful beach and charming old town. Together, they made for an unforgettable Sicilian experience that I’d happily return to in a heartbeat.
Top things to do in Palermo:
1) Soak up the atmosphere at Quattro Canti – four corners of joy in the heart of Palermo, don’t miss this one.
2) Palermo Cathedral and rooftop – my top tip is to go just as the sun begins to give that golden glow over the city - around 5pm would be perfect.
3) Buy tickets for Palatine Chapel – I’ve never experienced a chapel like it. You have to see it to believe it.
4) Cannoli at I Segreti Del Chiostro – you won’t regret it … believe me.
Top things to do in Cefalù:
1) Hike La Rocca – well worth it for the views over the beautiful coastline and old town.
2) Try seafood – being on the coast you can expect to have the freshest of the fresh. I’d highly recommend Bucatini Con Sarde if you can find it!
3) Check out the Cathedral – in particular it really is worth spending the money to enjoy the towers and rooftops of the cathedral … you’ll find a terrace with a gorgeous backdrop of La Rocca if you explore far enough.
Was the most wonderful trip! And the best travel companion, I vote we do an annual trip! Xxx